With The Grace of the Sea

In an octopus’s garden – dan

We arrived at Staniel Cay, the playground of the rich and also other people who drive around in little rubber boats like us. It’s a fantastic place full of interesting contrasts and some spectacular sights.

They have a tiny harbor just for dingys, which made our visits to the island very convenient, especially after consuming a few adult beverages at the yacht club. We heard there about 70 full time residents on the island.

There’s a nice yacht club, a small airport and grocery stores like the “Pink Pearl Supper Market” pictured above. Calling the Pink Pearl a “Super Marked” seemed like a stretch to me but I guess it’s all relative (and possibly all related too). There’s also the nearby Yellow and a Blue markets for variety of color if not products.

We nestled in between Staniel and Big Majors Cays and ended up anchored right next to the tiny cay that contains the famous Thunderball Grotto. I knew from my research that one of the highlights of many people’s transit of the Northern Exumas is snorkeling this cave. So it was with much anticipation and a bit of skepticism that I approached the grotto in mask and fins.

The reason for anticipation is obvious, the skepticism came from the fact that the cave has been featured in a couple of movies, is popular and accessible. A part of my brain wondered if something so accessible could retain its natural beauty because nature often suffers notoriety and human attention.

Susan was terrified by the thought of snorkeling the grotto and didn’t attempt it until the third day of our stay. I was turned back from my first attempt by the strong current that eventually brought me to a standstill (or would that be a swimstill) a short distance from entrance. The next morning at slack, low tide Susan and I took the dinghy to the other side of the cay. Susan stayed with the dink while I swam into the grotto. The entrance was surrounded with fish and getting in was easy because of the low tide, I didn’t even have to dive to enter. In a word, it was spectacular!

I’ve never done anything like this before so it was a little spooky at first but I soon warmed to the experience and was charmed by the wonder of the place.

I was reminded that snorkelers often feed the fish when fish by the dozens came up to me expectantly, but “sorry guys” I had forgot the snacks. For the most part they seemed ok with my oversight but I did see one fish make an unfriendly gesture with his fin before swimming away.

The above water portion of the grotto is a fairly large cave with vaulted ceilings complete with several small holes that let in streams of sunlight.

It was a natural cathedral made of rock, water, air and light that was filled with a congregation of fish and the occasional snorkeler. The underwater portion of the grotto was even more enchanting, comprised of several chambers all cast in shades of blue. On one sandy shoal I saw the largest stingray that I’ve ever encountered.

There was a wild variety of fish but it was difficult to photograph them, because the light was dim in the grotto and most of the fish tended to stay in shadows.

An underwater exit on the eastern side of the grotto that was fun to pop through because you have to dive underwater to get out. All and all it was the most amazing snorkeling experience that I’ve ever had. On the third day of our stay Susan got up her courage and snorkeled the grotto. She proved to be as popular with the fish as she is with the no-see-ums but in spite of the aquatic crowds Susan managed to tour the cave. Yay Susan!